Mission for Kimi

The puppet

A few days back I got a request via facebook from one of the drama teachers at my school.  It went like this
"let me know if you can help me pick up a few lightweight shadow puppets for MYP theatre classes. I saw them last time we were there and thought I'd see them somewhere else on our trip and never did"
My only clues on this were that they were around 250 Baht only seen at Wat Arun and I got a picture sent to me.
Many people may have replied no with an expletive added.  But as y'all know when a Southern Belle requests you to do something the only correct response is "Yes Ma'am".
So my Mission was to travel across Bangkok in 35 degrees temperature with humidity approaching 3000% to get some damn puppets!  Oh I would get to visit Wat Arun as well.

Sky Train

Sky Train inside

So yesterday I journeyed to Wat Arun to find the puppets.  The journey was via two Sky Train journeys, a trip on the river and a ferry across the river.  The return was the same.
The Sky Train is an impressive way of travelling across central Bangkok.  The air conditioning is super cool and things always work well.  From the outside it looks perfect.  From the inside it can be a little crowded.




The boat journey was similar.  A pleasant journey up the Chao Phraya river with a breeze blowing to keep you cool sounds great.  Reality slightly different.

Only seat left

River barge

River boats

Hotel boat

The Chao Phraya river goes right through the centre of Bangkok and is a major transportation link.  There are multiple passenger boats, many riverside hotels have their own boats, small freight boats and huge barges being towed down river.  Accidents do happen!  An accident in 1995 was due to one of the floating piers becoming overloaded with people and sinking into the mud.  The amount of boat traffic is huge.

Monks at the temple

Main temple with scaffold

Wat Arun is impressive.  It is one of the major landmarks in Bangkok.  It has at various times been a Buddhist and Hindu temple.  But with Thailand being overwhelmingly Buddhist the temple is seen as one of the major Buddhist temples in Bangkok.  There are always monks present.  At present the temple is being restored, with the porcelain that has been damaged being replaced and the entire temple complex being painted by hand.  This I would imagine will take years.

Painting the temple

A spire

Buddha in Wat Arun

Detail of painting

Hence much of the temple complex was closed and scaffolding surrounded much of the temple including the central spire.  There are a number of souvenir shops where I presumed those puppets would be found.

The temple is very well cared for with immaculate gardens.  

Souvenir shops - Yay!

Maybe a wall hanging

So after going through the temples I went looking for the puppets.  So after going down rows of souvenir shops (oh the excitement!), I could not locate any puppets.
 I even tried to ask someone which brought out the wonderful Thai smile of bemusement.  I found all those expected souvenir things but no puppets.

A buddha?

Some of these maybe

Lunch

The kitchen

So completely defeated I traveled back across the river and sat at a roadside stall for lunch.  Lunch was chicken and galangal in coconut soup with steamed rice.  Cost 90 Baht.  Invoice coming your way, Kimi.

Boat ride back

 The journey in return was the same only with more people as both the river boats and Sky Train are transport for school children who were now out of school for the day!

Few Singha beers have tasted as nice!

Time to go

Most readers of this rather intermittent blog are aware of my reasons for being back in New Zealand.  My wife, Stella Ford, sadly, succumbed to cancer on May 10 so my return was for the funeral and sorting out all the details.
I then decided to visit family and friends around New Zealand.  Since leaving New Zealand 3 years ago my brief trips back have been pleasant but of not much interest.  I have found New Zealand to be a little parochial and somewhat small-minded.  The media looks inward rather than outwards and I have felt somewhat 'restrained' about what is acceptable to say.
My intention was to leave New Zealand as quick as possible so that I could get somewhere more interesting and warmer!  However my nervousness about coping with my loss on my own, made me decide to stay for a few weeks longer.  So I have been to a number of places around the North Island visiting family and friends and while the weather has been cold, the visits have been warm.
I haven't been able to see everyone as I needed to slow down and take time.  If I missed you, sorry, maybe next time whenever that may be!

Some special thanks;

• To Cathy and Pete and the boys in the Hokianga.  It ALWAYS rains when I visit.  Which is good of course because it means that we have to stay inside and talk and eat and drink more!
• To Sabine (my favourite German) and Chris in Warkworth.  There are always special meals with far too much red wine!
• To the Whangaparaoa crew.  Jo, Larry, Ginny and Debbie (and Maltilda, sorry I didn't see you)!  Always fun and great laughs.  The wine bottle opens early and stays open late.  And I hang out for Jo's cooking!  See you in Bangkok Ginny!
• Wellington Mitzi.  The laughs and smiles that I have with you leave a lot of warmth.  We must plan to make sure it happens regularly.  I don't want to wait years to see you again.  Say hello to Boyd!  Actually you have probably forgotten I was there.
• Havana Helen in Sydney.  A special person with a special heart.  You meant a lot to Stella and you mean a lot to me.  Just love your passion; especially for fatty lamb!
• Lisa, Judith, Craig who just rang me up or met for coffee or wine.
• Ruth for the card!
• Louise for the special friendship to Stella and ongoing friendship to me.
• Michelle, Rodney, Sebastien and Jasper.  Always welcoming and your support is huge.  I hope you have done your chores Sebbie and avoid those distractions Jasper!
• My wonderful daughters Annie and Lucy.  They are something special.  They now pick me up and drive me around, organise a place to stay, and take me shopping.  Somewhat of a role reversal here.  They even organise their boyfriend's places for me to stay.  Thanks Nick and Shaq.

I also need to say thanks to the crew from the 'Desh.  You are all new friends but you have treated me and Stella so well.  The way you all turned up to farewell me when I left Dhaka was something special.

• Greg and Linda.  You two aren't bad for Aussies!  Actually are there any Australian teams in the Super 15 final?  Love the way you two love life.  Will bring some good wine back to share with you.
• To the folk leaving.  Big thanks!  Especially Sandra, Raimey (bestie or beastie, not sure!) & Mamiko (Year 10 rocks) and, Jacob and Helen.  Want to see you all in the future!
• Kim and Craig - Our ANZAC leadership.  You have treated me so well.  Big thanks!  Kim and Philip aren't bad for people from foggy old 'amilton.
• Two couples who have welcomed us so well.  Sonia and Neil!  Charmaine and Eben!  I look forward to many more BHC visits!
• The southern Belle - Kimi.  Early morning blasts of the Atlanta drawl make me wake up every morning at 6.45am.  "Y'all know what I mean!"
• Fellow kiwi Hugh.  Changing Bangladeshi theatre habits one show at a time.

As I reflect on the last eight months, two things hit me hard.  One good and the other maybe not so good.

The not so good; One of the hardest things both Stella and I found was the people who told us what to do to to 'cure' her cancer.  Whether it was smoking marijuana, taking overdoses of vitamin C, coffee enemas, pureed veges, expensive retreats in Australia or Mexico, not eating anything white, drinking and eating red things only. We had all of these and the vehemence became tiresome and sad.  If you were one of those people don't do it!  It hurts!

The good;  There are so many special, special people in the world.  I am privileged to know many and have mentioned a few here.  Two others are the oncologists, Anthony and Roger.  Your description of 'courageously ignoring' hit a real thread. 

As I head off to Thailand and then back to the 'Desh, my thoughts are mixed.  Sad to be leaving friends and family but elated at the adventures ahead.  One of my 'new' goals is to stay connected with important people in my life.  So if you hear from me often then one of my goals has been met!

Dhaka Elections

Today, April 28, there were elections in Dhaka for the council and the mayor.  

Elections in Dhaka are a different sort of event. The dominant advertising consists of paper billboards stretched across the road.  

A CNG just makes it through

Do people read these?

In some cases the road was nearly impassable because of the amount of messages across the road.

In Dhaka it was illegal for political parties to participate in the election.  So most candidates had an image which they utilized to indicate their allegiance.  

Vote for me I am an elephant

The time is now!

Traffic was banned for the day which made walking pleasant but left the city extremely quiet.  Roads which usually are grid-locked had no cars.  Shops, schools, business were all closed.

Weirdly quiet

Security was everywhere.  Armed police on the streets and at polling booths.  

I seem out of place

The very intimidating RAB driving around on the streets.

RAB - avoid!

On the day supporters were on the streets indicating (intimidating?) to people what to do.  They were open about who they supported.  Felt different as in New Zealand there is no electioneering on election day.

Our man is best!

Early on there were crowds around the polling booths but by the end of the day it was very quiet.  

There is a polling station here somewhere

Voting is somewhere in here

Vote here

Voting

Some last observations 

• There are special wards for women candidates and voters



Politics is a male 'thing'

• It will probably not solve the political impasse in Bangladesh

Back in Dhaka

After two months travelling around Europe in the depths of a Northern Hemisphere winter it is back to Dhaka and to continue working at the International School of Dhaka.
The warmth of the return both weather wise and the from the people has been wonderful and even though I have known people here for only a short time it is being back with good friends that know you well.
Dhaka has changed a bit over the months we were away.  There has been considerable political turmoil so there are many more armed guards and soldiers on the street.  Especially where we live as the embassies are all close by

   

But as you can see from the photos the soldiers are not very intimidating and the rifle is something to lean on especially when you are doing your shopping.

There has been a permanent 'hartal' since early January.  This is supposed to close the streets and shops and no business is supposed to occur.  In our area of Dhaka life goes as nearly normal.

There seems to be more buildings being constructed but the crazy way that computer cabling is done has not changed.

With spring there are even blossom trees in full display, and some important new messages.

The roads continue with their incredible chaos and the buses are just as ramshackle as ever.  The rickshaws are just as plentiful and colorful.
       




The street stalls continue to sell their food and the bicycle repair shop on the side of the road continues to operate.
            

The children still want their photo taken and with the World Cup in full swing cricket matches spring up everywhere.

One thing that impresses about the people of Dhaka is their clothing.  They are always immaculately dressed and the white is white even though that seems surprising given the grime of the city.  The women are usually dressed in bright colours and even though it is 30 degrees no male ever wears shorts.  Except me, of course.
                     

                    

Even Gulshan Lake (a smelly, polluted man-made lake) looks acceptable when the light is right.

A day in Rome

Our arrival in Rome was anything but auspicious.  A two hour wait in a queue to get through immigration.  There was no queuing system just a squash of people.  Then no stamp or check on our passports.  They did not even open my passport to check the photo!

Then catching the train and following some obscure directions to our apartment to meet 'Marco'.  Marco wanted to talk and talk, and it was useful talk; but we were jet lagged and tired.

I had a very early dinner (by Rome standards) and then crashed.

Sunday woke up early and went for a walk as the sun came up.  The area we are in - Testaccio - has no modern buildings.  Just wonderful architecture probably from the late 1800s early 1900s.  As well it is alongside one of the seven hills of Roma and next to the Tiber river.  The area is not touristy but is residential. It is close to the many tourist areas and has a wonderful array of authentic restaurants and shops.

Stella at Colesseo

Nothing open till about 8 when I had my first Italian coffee and pastry.  This is the way every Italian starts there day!  Then a pleasant, though slightly chilly walk, to the Colosseum.  Impressive ruins and not to many tourists.  More impressive was the ruins opposite which will be tomorrows agenda.  Lots of photos and many touts selling camera sticks for taking 'selfies'.

Colesseo

Then negotiated the Roman subway.  Easy!  But some of the trains were absolutely covered in graffiti with not a square cm not written on.  At first look they appeared moving pieces of art.  A nice walk around Republica and another coffee and pastry for 'second breakfast'.


Then another subway journey to the Vatican.  Managed to foil someone pick pocketing me.   My wallet is attached by chain to my trousers so when I felt the hand in my pocket they could not get the wallet.  I glared at the perpetrator and pushed him into a corner.  There were three guys working together as the others held the door open for the 'escape'.  Pleased I stopped them but not sure if I could of done more.

Stella's audience with the Pope

Thousands to see the man

Thousands of people walking down the road.  Into St Peter's square which is packed with people.  Probably 10 thousand people.  Then the man himself is at a window in the Apostlic Palace.

The Pope at the open window top right.

The crowd goes berserk!  So we hear a papal statement.  I understood two words 'Buongiorno' and "Arrivederci'.  But it must have been important as everyone cheered.  Don't know if we got the blessing!!  Lot of Argentinian flags.

Cute Swiss guards

Tried to get in to St Peter's church but too crowded so took some photos of the Swiss guards in their cute uniforms.  A few police about but very little security considering the risk.

The subway journey back was amazing.  Thousands squashed into the train; a most remarkable journey could hardly breathe let alone move.

Primo

Time for an authentic Sunday lunch.

Primo for me was spaghetti with bacon, artichokes and leek followed by pork and potatoes for secondi.

Secondi

Stella had tagliatelle with mushrooms followed by a rocket and Parmesan salad.  But she did have a some of my delicious pork.
I finished with a wonderful espresso while Stella indulged on tiramasu.
All washed down with a large amount of the house red wine.  For a house wine it was remarkable quality.

Then as fitting after an Italian Sunday lunch a little lie down.  Late dinner simply pizza and more red wine (Brunello di Montalcino)

Day one finished!

Moral Leadership

Most readers of this blog are aware of the reason for my being back in New Zealand.  One of the real positives (there are a few) is to be aware of the way that one is treated by others.

In the leadership roles that I have had I have always considered carefully the morality of the role.  What is my role about in considering the way I act towards others and how I use resources to make people's lives better?

I have always drifted towards supporting those who have been marginalised by society.  The poor, indigenous peoples, gay students, those with unfortunate lives for no reason of their own.  I have never really been in that position in society but I have always had the view that those marginalised people need more.

Many people influenced my development but two people stand out.

• Lester Levy - a leadership guru who inspired (and supported) me to always do what you thought was right.  To stand up even when you know you are going to get chopped down.
• Greg Ellis - a business consultant who did not talk but did.  Greg just helped wherever and whenever he could and so many wonderful ideas flow from him.

I do not see myself in political alignment with either of these guys - they are much to 'right' for me; but they have both been inspirational and wonderfully supportive to me.  (Though these left/right terms don't really make sense.  We should just judge people's attributes)

In Bangladesh I met a third person who has been inspirational and supportive to me.  With Stella's illness (see last posting) I am for the first time in my life in a vulnerable and risky position (especially regarding employment and finances).  My principal in Bangladesh, Craig Salmon, has stood up as would be expected of an outstanding leader, and has shown incredible support well beyond anything that I expected.

My sadness about New Zealand politics is that I do not see inspiring moral leadership that has been shown by these three people I have mentioned.  Throughout history we have had wonderful leaders on both sides of the political fence in New Zealand but now it all seems to be about political expediency and self-interest and never mind the morals.

Is this leadership in the 21st Century?