A day in Rome

Our arrival in Rome was anything but auspicious.  A two hour wait in a queue to get through immigration.  There was no queuing system just a squash of people.  Then no stamp or check on our passports.  They did not even open my passport to check the photo!

Then catching the train and following some obscure directions to our apartment to meet 'Marco'.  Marco wanted to talk and talk, and it was useful talk; but we were jet lagged and tired.

I had a very early dinner (by Rome standards) and then crashed.

Sunday woke up early and went for a walk as the sun came up.  The area we are in - Testaccio - has no modern buildings.  Just wonderful architecture probably from the late 1800s early 1900s.  As well it is alongside one of the seven hills of Roma and next to the Tiber river.  The area is not touristy but is residential. It is close to the many tourist areas and has a wonderful array of authentic restaurants and shops.

Stella at Colesseo

Nothing open till about 8 when I had my first Italian coffee and pastry.  This is the way every Italian starts there day!  Then a pleasant, though slightly chilly walk, to the Colosseum.  Impressive ruins and not to many tourists.  More impressive was the ruins opposite which will be tomorrows agenda.  Lots of photos and many touts selling camera sticks for taking 'selfies'.

Colesseo

Then negotiated the Roman subway.  Easy!  But some of the trains were absolutely covered in graffiti with not a square cm not written on.  At first look they appeared moving pieces of art.  A nice walk around Republica and another coffee and pastry for 'second breakfast'.


Then another subway journey to the Vatican.  Managed to foil someone pick pocketing me.   My wallet is attached by chain to my trousers so when I felt the hand in my pocket they could not get the wallet.  I glared at the perpetrator and pushed him into a corner.  There were three guys working together as the others held the door open for the 'escape'.  Pleased I stopped them but not sure if I could of done more.

Stella's audience with the Pope

Thousands to see the man

Thousands of people walking down the road.  Into St Peter's square which is packed with people.  Probably 10 thousand people.  Then the man himself is at a window in the Apostlic Palace.

The Pope at the open window top right.

The crowd goes berserk!  So we hear a papal statement.  I understood two words 'Buongiorno' and "Arrivederci'.  But it must have been important as everyone cheered.  Don't know if we got the blessing!!  Lot of Argentinian flags.

Cute Swiss guards

Tried to get in to St Peter's church but too crowded so took some photos of the Swiss guards in their cute uniforms.  A few police about but very little security considering the risk.

The subway journey back was amazing.  Thousands squashed into the train; a most remarkable journey could hardly breathe let alone move.

Primo

Time for an authentic Sunday lunch.

Primo for me was spaghetti with bacon, artichokes and leek followed by pork and potatoes for secondi.

Secondi

Stella had tagliatelle with mushrooms followed by a rocket and Parmesan salad.  But she did have a some of my delicious pork.
I finished with a wonderful espresso while Stella indulged on tiramasu.
All washed down with a large amount of the house red wine.  For a house wine it was remarkable quality.

Then as fitting after an Italian Sunday lunch a little lie down.  Late dinner simply pizza and more red wine (Brunello di Montalcino)

Day one finished!

Moral Leadership

Most readers of this blog are aware of the reason for my being back in New Zealand.  One of the real positives (there are a few) is to be aware of the way that one is treated by others.

In the leadership roles that I have had I have always considered carefully the morality of the role.  What is my role about in considering the way I act towards others and how I use resources to make people's lives better?

I have always drifted towards supporting those who have been marginalised by society.  The poor, indigenous peoples, gay students, those with unfortunate lives for no reason of their own.  I have never really been in that position in society but I have always had the view that those marginalised people need more.

Many people influenced my development but two people stand out.

• Lester Levy - a leadership guru who inspired (and supported) me to always do what you thought was right.  To stand up even when you know you are going to get chopped down.
• Greg Ellis - a business consultant who did not talk but did.  Greg just helped wherever and whenever he could and so many wonderful ideas flow from him.

I do not see myself in political alignment with either of these guys - they are much to 'right' for me; but they have both been inspirational and wonderfully supportive to me.  (Though these left/right terms don't really make sense.  We should just judge people's attributes)

In Bangladesh I met a third person who has been inspirational and supportive to me.  With Stella's illness (see last posting) I am for the first time in my life in a vulnerable and risky position (especially regarding employment and finances).  My principal in Bangladesh, Craig Salmon, has stood up as would be expected of an outstanding leader, and has shown incredible support well beyond anything that I expected.

My sadness about New Zealand politics is that I do not see inspiring moral leadership that has been shown by these three people I have mentioned.  Throughout history we have had wonderful leaders on both sides of the political fence in New Zealand but now it all seems to be about political expediency and self-interest and never mind the morals.

Is this leadership in the 21st Century?

Sadness at so many levels.

It has been a very long time between posts and this posting explains why.

It also talks about a lot of sadness for me at so many levels of life.

Firstly the reason for no posting.  Stella and I are back in New Zealand and have been here since the middle of October.  This has been an unwanted trip and we would prefer to be back in Dhaka than here.  We have returned here because Stella had what we thought was a routine operation in Bangkok at the beginning of October.  The operation went well and the care was tremendous.

However it was found that the tumor that Stella had removed was not benign and was malignant.  The prognosis we were given was not good.  We returned to New Zealand for further prognosis and treatment in what we remember (probably through rose-tinted spectacles) as a public health system which would deliver the care we needed.

We have been shocked!

We enrolled in Wellington immediately we arrived and had an expectation that we would be seen in two weeks.  After three weeks of waiting and no contact we rang and left several messages.  Still no reply so a formal complaint was made.  A phone call then occurred and we were told it would be several more weeks before we could get a notification of an appointment.

So we have had to go to the only private oncology centre in New Zealand and pay for consultation and treatment.  Lucky our school insurance will pay the $16000 required.  The treatment is excellent but unavailable through the Public Health System.

Hence the sadness.  Obviously sad that Stella has a poor prognosis.  Sadness also that NZ's once proud public health system where everyone was an equal no longer exists. While we have loved catching up with family and friends we could have got the treatment in most countries of the world by going private.

So NZ's current political leaders have run done our health system while promoting and endorsing private care.  The prime minister 'Slimy John' opened the private oncology centre we are going to while his government endorses cuts to NZ's health system.  I can't imagine a previous prime minister in NZ's history doing that.

So everyone get Health Insurance because the run down system will not help you even when it is serious and life threatening.  This is not a criticism of the people but of the politicians who endorse a system that allows only the privileged to access the best care.  It is nice to be able to access this care but only a very few New Zealander's can get the care we have had.

The Street

The street in Dhaka is an interesting place to be.  The immediate area where we live is very peaceful and green and with very little traffic.  Courtesy of the closed off roads and guards (many armed) who control access.

But within 400 m and a short walk one is in the crowded streets of rickshaw alley.  Here roadside stalls, rickshaws, pedestrians, and an occasional car all are in an amazing street about 7 metres wide.  As well there will be someone pushing or cycling with a huge load.





















One can buy live trussed-up chickens or very fresh healthy produce.  I brought two mangoes yesterday for 140 Taka.  About US$1.60.  A cucumber for 20 Taka (they laughed at me so I know I got ripped off).  Sometimes there is some very dodgy looking fish!  There always the man with the hot roasted peanuts and the cobbler fixing shoes on the side of the road.  As well the man on the sewing machine is there only some days.  You can pay for your phone at a tin shed or buy a power plug adapter (you need heaps of these).

Walking around with a camera provokes interest.  Once I felt someone tugging my camera and expected it to be a person trying to take it.  But it was someone who wanted their picture taken, which is a very common request. And not from children.





















The people are all friendly and impeccably dressed.  Even though the street is mud or dust (depending on when it last rained) everyone is wearing clean clothes.  The cars slow down so they don't splash people.
It is an amazing street.

Traffic

The first in your face experience in Dhaka is getting around.  The roads and traffic are horrendous and scary.  Initially one is too scared to cross the road but now we run between the traffic holding out our hand like a seasoned local which encourages the vehicles to stop - although they rarely do.

A well used bus

The buses are amazing!  All the buses look as though they have been in a demolition derby.  With dents and damage all over them.  They slow down, but often don't stop to let people on and off.  They don't pull over and will often stop in the middle of the round creating chaos all around them as people run through the cars to board them.

Let's jump now

A 'CNG'

Bus chaos

The roads are crowded with a menagerie of vehicles and people.  Humans push incredible loads of supplies on the deck of wheeled carts through speeding buses and trucks.  As well there are small green 'tuk-tuks' ducking between cars.  They are called CNGs here.  They look like death traps because you are caged in.


When one wishes to enter a stream of traffic you just turn into it depending on the courage of the driver.  The stream is supposed to let you in.


As well there are rickshaws everywhere.  They can be quite quick because they go up narrow alleys and can avoid traffic congestion.  But in places they add to the chaos by going the wrong way along main roads, crossing across streams of traffic and basically being completely devoid of road rules.

Rickshaw Alley

Which way do I go?

Lets just hang out!

The roads are also a congregating place for people especially rickshaws.  They all hang out at street corners filling up half the road.

They streets are filled with a constant sound of horns being blasted.  Drivers use their horn in place of the their brake.  It means 'I'm coming get out of the way'

Our street

Our apartment

Our suburb while only a few minutes from a main road is very peaceful.  One end of the suburb is blocked off so there is no through traffic.  The roads are quiet and the streets full of greenery.  Our apartment building is an oasis of calm.








Every day in the car to and from school (about 15 minutes in the morning and 25 minutes coming home) is an adventure.  There are very few crashes which is due to the fact the traffic hardly moves at times and the amazing skill of the drivers.

Dhaka

Four days have passed since our arrival in Dhaka.

It has been busy!

The crowd watching us leave for the river

The school is very social with events organised every night.  It is also a very friendly place and remarkably tranquil among the chaos of Dhaka.  We get picked up every morning and taken to work and driven home every day.

Some initial thoughts
The pluses

• The people.  The Bangladeshi people are very friendly and inquisitive.  They do not really try and rip you off (though you pay more than locals).  Today we went to Old Dhaka and there was a crowd to watch all the time.  Especially as we went on the river.
• The food.  It is incredible.  We have found the 'best croissants in the world' according to the baker, great pastries, excellent thai, wonderful biryani, amazing Indian.  Tonight it is Japanese! A foodies delight and low cost.



A Rickshaw

• There is organic food available.  Excellent coffee and great fruit.  
• The school.  Many wonderful things which I will leave for a later post.
• Excitement.  It is a constant adventure when out of the house. The rickshaw rides are especially interesting.  The ride to town from our home costs $1.20.  Shopping is also fun.
• The place is very green.  Trees are everywhere and plants are cheap.

The negatives

• Mosquitoes.  We need to wear insect repellent and we have an electrical 'zappa' to kill them in the house.
• Alcohol.  It is easy to get but you need to get organised.  We have to join a club and get to the 'warehouse'.  There are very few bars but restaurants let you take your own in. Tomorrows task.
• While our apartment is nice and big it is a quiet area of town.  The diplomatic area.  Would prefer a bit more interesting place.

But at present the positives far outweigh the negatives - the ledger is very much in the plus.

Packing

The Visa saga is over.  It took many emails, several phone calls to Bangladesh, a drive to Canberra, three cancelled plane flights - but it finally arrived.  The trip to Canberra made it worthwhile.  They were going on holiday (it is the end of Ramadan) so our personal requests made a difference.  After three weeks of waiting for documents it ended up taking just one day.

The thought of packing makes me not want to travel.  It is even harder when you don't know much about where you are going or have any idea about the apartment you are staying in for the next two years.  We have been informed that they are usually large, have tiled floors, basic furniture and usually poor quality kitchen equipment.

For foodies like ourselves that is a challenge.

• How many crystal wine glasses (assuming we can get wine)?
• What variety of plates do we need?
• Do we take the cast iron frying pan, the wok, the blender, the ice-cream maker?
• Do we take the candle sticks ( the power fails quite often!)
• How many kitchen knives do we need?

And how much of our art collection to take and what about that very special rug?  I hear we need a fan for when the air-conditioning fails and a lamp because the lighting is quite dim.

Our house looks bare.  Our old couch goes today.  Sold for $5!  Then there is two camping chairs, a milk crate table and a mattress on the floor.  All the paintings are packed and there is piles of paper to be sorted through and discarded.

Much of our stuff gets put at the front door with our free sign on it.  We have given away huge amounts of stuff.

Only four days left then it is on the plane.

Can't wait - if only the house would pack itself!

Bangladesh Bureaucracy

The process of leaving from Australia and getting to Bangladesh seems hard.

We were hoping to leave next week and spend some time in Malaysia or Cambodia.  But 10 days from then we have no visa.

We are waiting for "The 'E' Visa Recommendation Letter which will be issued by the Board of Investment (BOI), Prime Minister's Office, Govt. of Bangladesh, is taking a little more time."

The delay is frustrating.  But I suppose that is the way the country runs.

I did however enjoy the letter from the school to the embassy.  The language is interesting!
"Thank you once again in advance for the kind assistance and help rendered to the expatriates teachers in getting their visa's sorted and their smooth entry into Bangladesh. This will enhance our image and the investment sector of Bangladesh and for the educational development of the country."

We have been busy selling things though it often seems like we are giving things away.  We have found a weekly garage sale where we have taken things.  When you set up you immediately get accosted by buyers.  As you are unloading the car they take things out of the car and go through the goods yelling at you to buy something.  The picture alongside shows the throng around our stand.  Stella is in the middle somewhere.

We ended up having a max price of $2 then $1 then 50 cents and finally 20 cents.  One person got a crystal wine decanter, a sandwich maker and a pot for less than $1.

This seems the best way to set up a house.  Wonderful bargains and amazingly good stuff.

Last Day

A humbling last day.

My last day at my present school showed the best and the worst of this school.

This wonderful group of students presented me with cards and gifts and a photo of themselves.  My year 9 class and a awesome group to teach.  As well I got a table full of presents (too many chocolates) and many wonderful messages.

Many of these students will do something special one day.  They are tremendous people.

Other classes were equally as overwhelming.  The children at this school are just wonderful.

The most humbling message was from a student in the photo above.  Part of her message is shown alongside.

The best part is "Thanks for getting me used to not being spoon feed."

Sometimes we as teachers forget our influence and this class in particular has made me realise our importance.

The worst was the reminder of how management's unreasonableness can effect how we feel.  Impossible time expectations again.

Things are Happening

Lots Happening

The last week of my teaching in Sydney is here.  I told my pastoral care group I was going and it was all over the school in 30 seconds.

It feels hard.  I know nearly every student at the school (there are only 350 secondary students) and as they have found out I am leaving they all want to make a comment.  Most comments are hugely humbling.  I have loved teaching at this school and have worked hard to make positive learning relationships.

I have not given a detention, a litter imposition, any lines or a punishment.  I have only rung parents with good news.  In a school with so much negative control, being overwhelming positive and working hard at developing constructive relationships, has meant I have a huge amount of 'mana'.  

It has been simple really.  Be positive and friendly and it will be returned.

I have students been put in my class because they have created concerns elsewhere and they act appropriately when the environment is positive.  This has reaffirmed my inherent belief that students can be 'managed' by using positive reinforcement.  

We don't have really hard students but all our students are not angels.  The most difficult students I have are the most annoyed I am leaving.  

"Who will look after us?"  they ask.  

I hope I can always teach like this!

On another tack.  I rang Bangladesh tonight to see if I exist or if this job is a figment of my imagination.  I spoke to Mr Babar.  He knew all about me, my wife Stella and was hugely reaffirming.  

People like this are so important in organisations.  Even talking to them over a long distance phone call you finish feeling hugely impressed and with a renewed optimism regarding your role in the organisation.

Bring on Bangladesh! (and Mr Babar)

Getting Ready

Well its only a few weeks to go!

My soccer team got beaten in the final of their competition so obviously it is time to go.  I have enjoyed teaching at my present school.  After not having a full time teaching job for 20 years or so it has been a challenge to have a full time job with teaching all day.  I have found it easy compared to the stresses of management and nice to establish relationships with wonderful adolescents.

It is going to be hard to say good-bye.

But poor management around me is frustrating and it is time to get out of this place and look for new horizons.  I love teaching in this school but I find working there a challenge.  More space is needed.

I told some students I was leaving today, it was hard!  So many conversations in the next 7 days.

Bangladesh seems near and far.

Near in that I think about the teaching and have many email conversations with people (I don't know) there; but far in that I don't have a visa, a ticket or any sense of that is going to happen.  Trying to sell stuff and losing money because of that.

Rental of the house to sort out, tax to sort out, visitors coming and still teaching full time!  Whwee!

Contract

Well my contract has finally arrived.  3 months after being appointed to the position!  And guess what it has a mistake!
I hope it will not take another three months to negotiate a change!

Interestingly the mail system is so bad in Bangladesh that we have to send mail back via London.  So our letters go from Sydney to London and then to Bangladesh by courier.  As well we have to send 12 passport photos each, photocopies of everything (including marriage licence) and a whole lot of other documents.

With only three months till we leave it is now looking like things are all go.  Started selling stuff on eBay and garage sales but it is a bit unknown about what do we take, what do we sell and what do we leave in storage.

Heading back to New Zealand for a week.  We think it will be the last time we are there for many years so need to see family and friends.  Not looking forward to it really except for meeting people again as I have so moved on from the past.  The future is where my energies and thoughts lie as I am so excited about the challenge of Bangladesh.

It is difficult to survive the frustration of my present role with the great excitement ahead and I would like the next three months to disappear.  Bring on Bangladesh!!

Reaction

Reaction

After a few weeks and people have heard we are moving to Bangladesh it is interesting to consider the variety of reactions that I have experienced.  

A group of people see our decision as exciting.  In fact one person immediately rushed out and started applying for jobs in schools in Africa and the poorer regions of the Middle East.  Other peoples genuine excitement for us is great and adds to our own excitement of adventure.

A second group's reaction is surprise and wonderment.  (My children!)  This appears to be based mainly around ignorance of Bangladesh.  They seem surprised to know that there is the twelfth biggest shopping mall in the world in Dhaka.  Bigger than anything in Australia, Europe or the United States.  Economic growth is higher than Australia and New Zealand combined.  There is electricity (though not all day), mobile phones (though not 3G), the internet and cable TV.  Once these people become informed they move into the first group.

But there is a third concerning group.  Their comments are "That's interesting!" or more honestly "Why would you go there?"  Their comments seem to indicate the divide between the developed and developing countries.  You can go and holiday in the Third world as long as it is in the oil states of the Gulf, Thailand or the cities of China.  But going to Africa or elsewhere in Asia is not acceptable to holiday let alone live.  

I have been surprised that some many people have reacted in this third way.

The Decision

Dhaka

Well we decided on Dhaka.

It was a very difficult decision between Dhaka and Bangalore.

Our reasons (in no particular order)

• The school is very good and has a lot of local (Bengali) students rather than expats.  That is a small positive to me.
• There is lots that Stella can be involved in.  Volunteers are needed everywhere. 
• There will be adventures every day,  In fact probably every 30 minutes.
• It is very easy to get to so many places.  Direct flights to London!
• The culture is a HUUUUUGE jump from where we are.
• Money can be saved because the cost of living is so small.

so Dhaka it is!

The worries. 

• The poverty! Will it grind us down.
• Getting a drink!  It is a Moslem country so we need to work within their constraints around alcohol.
• The amount of people.  150 million in an area 60% of the size of New Zealand is beyond comprehension.  the impact of that amount of humanity is slightly scary.

But the decision a week or so later still feels good so I am happy with that.

Now we have so many things to decide and work on.

bring on August and Dhaka!

Jobs

Jobs

Well the fair has gone well.  Three job offers.  Dubai, Bangladesh and India.  Now I have to decide.  

Still more interviews to go so I hope I don't get any more to decide from

The Fair

A journey starts!

Just two weeks back my wife Stella and I decided to start the next part of our life together.  We both enjoy travelling and while our time in Sydney, Australia has been great we are looking at further adventure.

Camping in Murray River.

So two weeks ago I enrolled with Search Associates to attend their job fair in Melbourne, Australia at the start of January. Overall extremely impressed with this organisation and their support and professionalism.  

Not used to staying at the Langham hotel however.  It is a bit too smart for us. Especially as we had just spent a week camping in the Murray river basin in 30 degree temperatures.  So we arrived with a very dusty car and looking a bit bedraggled.

After a day of listening to presentations about schools and how to get a job the 'meat market' began.  The candidates around 230 had to rush to 60 odd schools and get signed up for interviews.  You had 5 minutes or so to impress people with why they should interview you then it was off to the next school.  Bit of pressure.

I got 5 interviews and another school wanted to see me so went rushing off to the first interview, then a half hour break then off to the next interview.  And so on.  Finished about 7pm so needed a real cold beer after that.

Sunday the same more interviews, second interviews and hopefully job offers!

And guess what the same on Monday!  

Then its load up the car and off camping.